Sewing Terms used in our patterns

On this blog I want to explain the termonology we use in our patterns and instructions. This is to give you a guide line on what we mean and hopefully, if something is not clear, it becomes clear. 

If you are missing a term please let us know, so we can add this.

This is a temporary stitch to baste two pattern pieces together. This is normally sewn with a normal straigth stitch and long stitch length.

A hole in the fabric just big enough for the button to pass trough it. The hole is bound with small zig zag stitching. 

Cover stitch is a sewing machine to make a hem with one, two or three needles. The back looks like a serger stitch. This gives a professional look. The biggest benefit of a cover stitch is that it covers the raw edge and the stitching stays elastic.

You can also attach a binding piece on your machine to automatically sew on binding.

You fold the fabric double with the print on top, make sure it is straight. Place the pattern piece on the created fold.

Lay the fabric double,  straight. Place the pattern piece on top. When cut you will have both pattern pieces mirrored.

A cutting mat is a self healing board use to cut your fabric on with a rotary cutter. 

The direction in which the fabric has (the most) stretch.

Elastic can be found in different wides and types, clear elastic, elastic thread for smocking, elastic for in the waistband etc. 

Zig zag, elastic straight stitch or seams with a serger of hems with a coverlock.

You want a sharp scissor only used for cutting fabric, other materials will make the blades dull.

Facing is used to finish raw edges of a garment at open areas, like the neckline, armholes, seams, planckets.

Gathering is a technique used to create fullness to the fabric. There are three ways to gather.

  1. Use your sewing machine and baste stitch two rows of stitches and pull on the ends.
  2. Use your sewing machine, a long stitch length and a high tension. This will make the fabric gather automatically.
  3. Using your serger 

The grain is the straight line and is parallel to the selvage.

Normally a pattern will tell you to hem the bottom of a garment. To hem you fold the fabric inside, press and stitch them in place.

Interfacing is a reinforcement of the fabric, you have lots of different kinds for different purposes. You’ll have fusable interfacing to iron on the fabric and stitch on interfacing. 

Lining is jused on the inside of a garment to cover up the seams. 

Markings are reference points on a pattern for example the front and the back of the sleeve or the center back. You can make this markings with a water soluable marker or chalk markers. There are a lot of different types and colors available. The type you will use depends on the fabric and preferences. 

There are different type of sewing needles available. At the Schmetz site you download this pdf to look up the perfect needle for your fabric.  https://www.schmetz.com/mm/media/de/web/7_tochtergesellschaften/bilder_18/schmetz/pdfs_4/nadel_abc/SCHMETZ_Needle_ABC~7.pdf

Pins help you to hold your fabric in place, while sewing or hemming. Make sure you don’t sew or serge over them. You can also use wonderclips. 

Iron to make your garment or project flat. 

Edge of your cut project.

The side with the print on it. Not on all fabrics there is a clear front and back.

Two pieces of fabric with the right side/printed site together, you will see the wrong side of the fabric. 

Used in combination with a cutting mat to make cutting variel materials comfortable and easy.

The extra space added to the pattern for the seams. You will sew on that line measured from the raw edge or fold.

To measure your hems easy and precize. 

The uncut edge of the fabric, sometimes a logo or the name of the fabric can be found on this edge.

A serger uses an overlock stitch to have elastisch seams. You can also make a rolled hem on it. 

Used for sewing or stitching clothing.  

Snaps are a closure of plastic or metal, you can find them in lots of colors and variations. Usually you can use a hammer or vario tang to place them. 

Stretch and Recovery percentage is the amount that the fabric naturally stretches. You can find a blog over here

A simple straight stitch on your sewing machine

An extra stitch on top on anready sewn seam.

Alternative for using pins. Holds layers of fabric of sewing projects. 

Fusable Interfacing round dots great for eyelets or snaps. 

The side where there is no print on it. 

Can be bought in different lengths and colors. You have zippers which can completly open, seperating zippers, used for jackets and cardigans. 

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